Climbing Khan-Tengri Peak 7010 m.
Climbing to the peak of Khan Tengri, one of the most beautiful peaks of the world, belongs to the class of high-altitude mountaineering and requires strong physical and mental health from climbers, the necessary experience of climbing, appropriate equipment and a sound approach to acclimatization.
Khan Tengri or else “Lord of the Spirits” (7010m) is the second highest peak of Tien Shan, the northernmost of the Asian mountain ranges. The local population also calls it Kantau (Bloody Mountain) because of the pink marble on the top, which is painted red in the dawn. It is difficult to describe the beauty of this mountain, you must see it yourself. And admiring enough, add it to your collection of ascents.
You need to go because it is:
climbing one of the most beautiful peaks of the world and the second highest point of Tien Shan;
full service on the route: set high-altitude tents, helicopter transfer, group equipment and high-altitude meals included in the price;
Helicopter flight to the base camp will allow you to appreciate the beauty of the mountains;
the ability to test yourself for strength;
This ascent will help prepare for new and more challenging ascents.
Thread route: Bishkek – Karkar camp (2200m.) – BC S.Inylchek (4000 m) – Camp 1 (4600m) – Camp 2 (5500m) – BL S.Inylchek (4000m) – Camp 1 (4600m) – Camp 2 (5500m) – Camp 3 (5900m) – BC S.Inylchek (4000 m) – Karkar camp (2200m.) – Bishkek
Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek
Arrival in Bishkek. Hotel accommodation. Free time for walking around the city, visiting the bazaar, etc.
Day 2: Transfer to Karkaru (460 km)
Moving to Karkaru (460km). Accommodation at the Karkara Base Camp.
Day 3: Helicopter transfer
Helicopter flight to the Base Camp “Khan Tengri” (4000 m). The Khan-Tengri Base Camp is located on the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the South Inylchek glacier at the confluence of the latter with the Zvezdochka glacier at an altitude of about 4000 m.
Day 4: Khan-Tengri Base Camp
Acquaintance with the area of Khan-Tengri peak. Today acclimatization ascent. Check equipment. Free time for the first day, you can walk – this is the best acclimatization.
Day 5: 2nd Day at Base Camp
Continuation of familiarization with the area. Preparing for the ascent.
Day 6: Khan-Tengri Peak Base Camp (4000m) – Camp 1 (4200m)
Base camp peak Khan-Tengri (4000m) – Camp 1 (4200m). The route starts from the Base Camp of the Y. Inylchek Glacier located on the left-bank moraine, at the confluence of it with the Zvezdochka Glacier, at an altitude of about 4000 meters. Further, the route runs along the central part of the Y. Inylchek glacier, in the direction of Camp No. 1 (4200 m.), Which is located at the confluence of the Y. Inylchek glacier with the Semenovsky glacier on the right bank moraine, at the foot of the Chapaev peak.
Day 7: Camp 1 (4200m) – Camp 2 (5300m)
Camp 1 (4200m) – Camp 2 (5300m). Further, the ascent up the Semenovskiy glacier in the direction of the icefall, in the upper reaches of the glacier, the stretch of the path is objectively dangerous due to possible collapses from Chapaev peak and Khan-Tengri peak. Exit early in the morning, and, preferably, to move without stopping to rest. The icefall is either “head-on”, or costs under the slopes of Chapayev peak. The second option is faster, but more dangerous than the first, due to possible avalanches and rockfalls from the slope of Chapayev peak. The movement must be made in conjunction, due to the abundance of cracks on the glacier. After passing the icefall, exit to the upper circus of the Semenovsky glacier. Here at an altitude of 5300 m. Camp №2 is located. Traditionally, this camp is used at acclimatization exits, but then, on the second attempt, they pass from the first camp to the third one.
Day 8: Camp 2 (5300m) – Camp 3 (5900 m)
Camp 2 (5300m) – Camp 3 (5900 m.) From Camp №2 we climb the gentle slopes to the upper reaches of the circus l. Semenovskogo in the direction of the bridge between the peak of Khan-Tengri and the shoulder of Chapayev peak. In the left part of the jumper at an altitude of 5900 m. Is located – Camp №3. Here it is possible to set up tents, or dig snow caves.
Day 9: Descent to the Base Camp of Khan-Tengri Peak on the way up
Descent to the Base Camp of Khan-Tengri Peak along the ascent path.
Day 10, 11: Day of rest and preparation
Day 12: Camp 1 (4200m) – Camp 2 (5300m)
Day 13: Camp 2 (5300m) – Camp 3 (5900m)
Day 14: Camp 3 (5900m) – Camp 4 (6400m)
Camp 3 (5900m.) – Camp 4 (6400m.) From Camp No. 3, the route passes through the bridge and further along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri.
The comb, as a rule, is fixed with stationary ropes, “rails”. The route is rocky to an altitude of 6900 m, then a snow dome turning into a narrow snow knife that leads to the top. There are platforms on the ridge at altitudes of 6,200 m, 6,400 m, 6,700 m. Here, if necessary, you can set up Camp – №4. The most convenient platform at an altitude of 6400 m.
Day 15: Top Assault
Ascent to the top of Khan-Tengri peak – 6995 m. Descent to Camp 3 (5900 m.). Up to an altitude of 6700 m. The ascent goes along the right side of the western ridge, from the platform 6700 – by traverse to the right in the direction of the couloir. At the beginning of the couloir there is a rocky wall of 10 m. Further along the couloir and again to the right. On the rocks exit to the snow scallop, resting against the rocky wall 20 m high. Next, access to the dome. At the top is an unremarkable tripod.
Day 16: Descent to the Base Camp of Khan-Tengri Peak on the way up
Day 17: Reserve Day
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 18: Reserve Day
Reserve day in case of bad weather. And the weather on the Tien Shan “thing” is completely unpredictable, so you need to take into account the mood of the local “host”.
Day 19: Fly to Karkara
Helicopter flight to Karkara and then moving to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation. Hotel accommodation. The charm of a forgotten civilization. Walk through the evening city. Free time to buy souvenirs.
Day 20: Free day
Free day in Bishkek.
Day 21: Departure from Bishkek
This is included
professional high-altitude guide
meeting at the airport
Transfer Bishkek – BC Karkar – Bishkek
registration in OVIR, border pass, registration in rescue squad
helicopter charter flights without baggage weight restrictions
group equipment: ropes (as needed), gas and gas burners, a set of kitchen utensils
high altitude products
advice on the route
hotel accommodation in Bishkek with breakfast and in the camp “Karkara” with full board (no more than 4 nights!)
installed high-rise tents (one tent for 3 people!);
railing on the route from the North and on the western ridge of Khan-Tengri peak
oxygen apparatus or compensation chamber in case of emergency
arrangement and group equipment in camps
advice on the route
This is not included
international flight to Bishkek
power not included in the program
personal equipment rental
other costs (insurance, overload in airplanes, etc.)
porters for carrying personal belongings
Good to know
Necessary clothes and shoes
down jacket at -30 C;
storm jacket with a membrane;
softshell fleece jacket;
storm trousers with a membrane;
softshell fleece pants;
thermal underwear is warm;
layered clothing thin;
trekking socks are thin;
trekking warm socks;
fleece hat (1 piece);
Panama from the sun;
trekking trousers (for exits below);
T-shirts with short sleeves – 3 pieces;
shorts, swimming trunks;
climbing boots technical, 7000 m;
descender (preferably not twisting the rope);
Replacement cords 2×3 m;
Climbing glasses (degree of protection +4).
backpack 40-50 liters;
trunk 120 l;
sleeping bag on – 20C;
personal dishes – KLMN;
thermos (1 l);
sunblock (factor 50+);
towel, soap, toothpaste, brush;
personal first aid kit.
Citizens of Russia do not need a visa to visit Kyrgyzstan. For citizens of Russia, to travel around Kyrgyzstan, it is enough to have an internal passport with you.
The period of registration of passes to the border zone takes up to 30 days. For registration permits required documents: a copy of the passport.
Hotel accommodation in Bishkek with breakfast and in the Karkara camp with full board (no more than 4 nights!)
Services in the Base Camp “Khan-Tengri Peak” (4000 m):
accommodation in double and triple tents;
shower, sauna, toilet, luggage storage;
electricity (220 V, 50 Hz);
consultation with a doctor;
the use of distant radio communications;
rent of radio stations during the ascent (only for groups over 3 people).
Breakfast at the hotel, lunch on the road Bishkek – Karkara;
in BL- food – full board (3 meals a day, hot, varied meals from professional chefs);
July, August is considered the high season for climbing Khan Tengri peak. At this time, the weather is most stable and the risk of unpleasant surprises is minimal. Nevertheless, one must be prepared for low temperatures (-15, -20 Celsius) on the night of ascent.
Insurance and medicine
If in ordinary life you use medicines, then it is better to have them with you.
It is necessary to have a high-risk category insurance, with an amount of coverage of at least 30 000 Euro covering the costs associated with climbing risks.
Kyrgyzstan (Kyrgyz. Kyrgyzstan), officially the Kyrgyz Republic – a state in Central Asia, is located between the Fergana Valley, Kazakhstan, Tien Shan, China and the Pamirs. The total length of the borders – 3051 km. The length of the country from east to west is 900 km, and from north to south – 410 km. No access to the sea. More than three quarters of its territory is occupied by mountains. The territory of Kyrgyzstan is located within two mountain systems. Its northeastern part lies within the Tien Shan, the southwestern part lies within the Pamir-Alay.
Professional altitude guide:
group of 1-3 people – 1 guide;
4-6 people group – 1 guide + 1 assistant guide;
group of 7-10 people – 1 guide + 2 guide’s assistants
A guide accompanying the group throughout the program ensures safety only if the rules and safety regulations of all participants are taken into account. Therefore, we recommend to fulfill its requirements. During the course of the program, especially in critical situations, participants must follow the instructions of the guide. All actions and decisions on the route during a situation that threatens the safety of participants are solely the responsibility of the guide accompanying the group. The guides carry with them the necessary group equipment, a mobile phone with the numbers of the district rescue services, as well as a first-aid kit for first aid. Security for us remains the main condition for fulfilling obligations to the client!