Climbing to Belalakaya 3861 m.
Climb to the top of Belalakaya. For the resemblance it is also called “Russian Matterhorn”. This route passes in the most fabulous corner of the Caucasus. Every step, every moment here is fascinating. The route is led by the honored master of sports of international class, Yuri Koshelenko!
If you have not been to Dombai, then you have not seen one of the most important pearls in the crown of the Caucasus Mountains. Three rivers – Amanauz, Alibek and Dombai-Ulgen – carry their waters from under the peaks of the same name. At the intersection of their valleys lies Dombai glade. Nature has generously bestowed this place. Ship pines are carried away to the sky, carpets of flowers cover the meadows, the heights here are small and the peaks do not suppress with grandeur. From a distance, the green of the slopes and the glaciers seem like decorations to some film. Worth a look – no, everything is real. Just the beauty is unnaturally magical. Dombay is not only a ski paradise, but for climbers there are many routes here.
One of the decorations of Dombai is Mount Belalakaya (3861 m.) Or “The Striped Rock”. It owes its name to white quartz stripes 50 m wide. The northeast wall is the most recognizable and most beautiful view of the mountain. The summit is the highest point of the western part of the Main Range of the Greater Caucasus. By its origin it is Carling, i.e. remnant of glacier flow. The Sufrudzhinsky and Belalakaysky glaciers destroyed the crest, forming a saddle, and the surviving part of the pyramidal form is the summit of Belalakaya. The easiest route to the mountain passes along the southern ridge. It is this simple route (climbing 3a) that we suggest you to conquer the mountain.
You need to go because:
climb in one of the most beautiful places of the Caucasian ridge;
get practice in skills of working out ice and rock equipment.
Thread route: Mineralnye Vody – Dombai (1650m) – Moussa-Achitar (3200m) – Dombai (1650m) – Bear Glade (2400m) – Doggy nights (2900m) – Belalakaya (3861m) – Dombai (1650m) – Mineral water
Day 1: Arrival at Mineralnye Vody. Transfer to Dombai
Moving to Dombai. The village is located in a cozy valley on the territory of the Teberdinsky reserve. The purest lakes, the luxury of forests, winding gorges will delight you.
Check in hotel.
Day 2: Day of acclimatization
The ascent of the cable car to the mountain Moussa-Achitar. From this mountain there is a beautiful view of Belalakaya. Get used to the height.
Day 3: Rock lessons
In the morning, access to the rocks to practice. Refresh the skills of working with a rope. Movement along the railing: lifting with the help of a clamp, descending with a “rappelling”.
Overnight at the hotel.
Day 4: Dog nights
The transition will take about 7 hours. “Monkey” trail goes along the Amanauz gorge. 30 minutes and we are at the pointer “Devil’s mill”. Below, at a depth of 30 meters the river rages, for its mad rotation the place received this name. After another 30 minutes through the birch woodland exit to the Great couloir. On the right side of the couloir we rise to its narrowing, cross and continue along the left side. The trail goes on the rocks, among the birches and rhododendrons. The vegetation slightly hampers movement, hence the name of the trail – “monkey”. About 4 hours later we reach the Bear Meadow (2400 m.). Flat, wide place, very convenient for tourist bivouacs. It is always crowded here. We stop for rest and lunch. Continuing the way, in an hour we will reach the “middle nights” near a stone with a memorial plaque. Further, focusing on the eastern edge of the peak of Belalakaya, we continue the ascent. On the left we go around the beginning of the rib and along the crest of the moraine we enter the “Upper-Sufrudzhinskie” or “Dog” nights. This is a rocky ridge, surrounded on all sides by glaciers. Above us is Belalakay, to the south – Sufrujinsky. Height – 2900 m.
We go to bed early. Tomorrow to the top.
Day 5: Climb to the top of Belalakaya
Route 3a category of difficulty passes along the southern edge. Very early exit – at 3 am. We pack the backpacks, unwind the rope, contact. On the glacier we go in cats. On the glacier, visibility is good. In the beginning, with even the average physical training, you can keep a good pace. When the zone of cracks begins, the rate will decrease, as it will be necessary to look for detours. By dawn we will approach the saddle of the Belalakay Pass. On the pass, cats and ice axes can be left (if there is good weather and a dry route). Further there will be only rocks.
The technical part of the route begins. First we go along the ridge, then along the shelves we leave to the left (1 square.) And continue climbing along the oblique inner corner. We leave on the ridge and on it we approach under the wall (2 k. Ff.). Wall – route key -10 meters 4–5 km. It goes either on the inner corner or to the right along the ridge. Next come the gendarmes. We rise to the second gendarme, we descend by climbing on the ridge.
Moving along the ridge. Before the third gendarme there will be 3-4 meters 4 r. Bad place, little clues. We rise to 3 gendarmes. From there we swum towards the top. Then you can go with simultaneous insurance (approximately 2 k. Ff.). Ahead will be another gendarme – white and in the form of a horse. After him, after 2 ropes, the technical part will end, it will be possible to untie and walk lightly to the top. 300-400 meters on the stones. Change the note. Dombai below us. In good weather, you can see the Black Sea and a bit of Georgia.
Get down to overnight.
Day 6: Reserve day
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 7: Descent to Dombai
We go down to the village. We spend the night in the hotel. Hot shower, rest.
Day 8: Departure home
Transfer to Mineralnye Vody. Departure home.
This is included
training and support of the group on the route
food on the climb
gas for burners
public gear on the route
transfer to Dombai
stay at the hotel 3 * – 4 nights
This is not included
flight to / from the port of Mineralnye Vody
meals downstairs (lunches and dinners), lunch packs for snacks during the ascent
mountaineering and tourist equipment rental
cable car lift
Good to know
Necessary clothes and shoes
down jacket at -10 ° C
membrane jacket with a membrane
storm trousers with a membrane
thermal underwear thin
socks are trekking warm
socks are tracking thin
mittens at -15 ° C
rope gloves (leather stitched)
fleece hat (1 pc.)
climbing boots for technical, up to 5000 m.
safety system – free of damage, not older than 5 years, certified
dynamic self-insurance – 2 pcs. or 3-3.5 m. dynamic rope with a diameter of 9.5-10 mm.
carbine (5 pcs.) muftovanny
certified helmet – free from damage, not older than 5 years. Attention! Do not hand over a helmet in the luggage! Take in hand luggage!
shoes suitable for cats
Climbing glasses (protection +4)
backpack 40-50 liters
sleeping bag (comfort –5 ° С)
thermos – 1 liter
towel, soap, toothpaste, brush
personal first aid kit
Russian passport, and also recommend that you take out a medical insurance covering sports and extreme risks.
All transfers according to the program on individual transport.
In Dombai stay at the hotel 3 *, on the route – in tents.
Meals in the village of Dombay are not included in the price. Products at the time of ascent are included in the price.
Summer in Dombai is sunny but not hot. Below, the average temperature is + 20 ° C, + 25 ° C. The higher the cooler. The border of snow is 2900-3000 m. Above 3000 m. At night and in the morning below zero. Precipitation is rare. On the pass and above will be windy. The temperature can drop to -5C.
Insurance and medicine
A first-aid kit for first aid is located at the guide; at any time and in any place, the guide has the opportunity to contact the rescuers of the Emergencies Ministry. You should have specific individual medications with you. Insurance policies covering sports and extreme risks can be ordered for an additional fee.
Dombay (Dombai Polyana) is a mountainous area in Karachay-Cherkessia in the Teberda basin in the North Caucasus (Russia). From here, you have a straight line 65 km to the top of Elbrus and 65 km to the Black Sea coast.
The southern border of Dombai is the main Caucasian ridge. The highest point is the summit Dombai-Yulgen (Dombai-Ulgen, Karach.-balk.kubity bison) with a height of 4046 meters.
The combination of the three main gorges: Alibek, Amanauz and Dombai-Yulgen – forms the natural center of the territory – the picturesque Dombai glade, which lies at an altitude of 1630-1650 meters above sea level.
Dombai is not an administrative concept, and its borders do not have a strictly boundary designation. This is a modern, although rising to tradition, name of the headwaters of the Teberda River – a major tributary of the Kuban, uniting several mountain gorges, originating from the Main Caucasus Range.
The word “home” in Karachai means “bison”. Once in the Dombay forests whole herds of mighty giants roamed. The name of the highest mountain in the area Dombay-Yolgen, in the language of the original inhabitants of these places, Karachai, means “dead bison.” There is another version, according to which Dombai glade was named after a hunter named Dommai, who, pursuing tours, killed the beast, but could not resist, fell from a high mountain into the abyss and crashed.
Dombai is one of the modern recreation and sports centers, mountaineering, skiing and tourist “Mecca” of the Greater Caucasus.
With the advent of the market economy in Russia, the hotel industry has gained rapid development. Currently, a tourist complex of several dozens of hotels, including modern mini-hotels, is operating in Dombai Glade.
Climbing and climbing can be a danger to human health and life.
The instructor of the curriculum provides security only if the rules of municipal administration and safety of all participants are taken into account. Therefore it is necessary to listen to the opinions and advice of a climbing instructor.
During the course of the program and, especially, in critical situations, the participants must fully and undoubtedly follow the instructor’s recommendations and guidelines. All actions and decisions on the route during a situation that threatens the safety of participants are solely the responsibility of the instructor.
During all of our programs, guides and instructors carry with them the necessary group equipment, a mobile phone with the numbers of district rescue services, as well as a first-aid kit for first aid.
Security for us remains the main condition for fulfilling obligations to the client!